The High Tatras were a bit of a disappointment! The valley between the High and the Low Tatras is an industrial corridor dominated by freeways and train lines, and dotted with manufacturing plants spewing fumes. The roads were lined with "panelarchies", the high rise awful accomodation towers favoured by the soviets (nobody should have better accomodation than another). Thankfully these days the panelarchy are painted in cheerful colours replacing the drab greys of the past.
The Tatras were topped with clouds (smog?) preventing us from seeing the tops. We took a road up into the High Tatras in the hopes of seeing the rugged mountains we have seen in pictures, but found only resorts with Soviet era architecture - totally uninteresting!
However as we turned southwards we found mountainous areas with scenic lakes much more to our liking, including the Slovakian Paradise National Park.
Two of the fattest pigs I have ever seen, and very hairy cattle..
17 March 2016
We were awoken last night at 2 am by the police asking for "documents". That meant passports. The police officers were very polite (except for rapping on our door at such an unsociable hour). They spent some time examining our travel history before wishing us a good trip.....
Later in the morning we were pulled over again, this time asking for "vehicle documents" and also for weighing the vehicle. The officer asked what we were doing here. Joe answered (in Czech) that he was born of Czech parents and was here to see the land of his parents. That got a nice reaction. Théy then mentioned that we hadn't had our lights switched on (compulsory here) and that they had seen me putting on my seat belt after noticing them (true). He wagged his finger at me and said "no, no no!" He went on to say that the fine for all of this was usually €500 (bloody hell!) but since he would not want to spoil Joe's experience of the land of his parents he would not press the fine! He wished us a good trip!
We soon crossed into Hungary. Hungary is mostly flat country, but as usual we were drawn to the green bits on the map, and we were soon satisfied with a mountainous area in the north east of Hungary (unknown name, near Miskolc). Here the forest is a mixed deciduous forest with no sign of the coniferous forests (man made) which dominate the rest of Europe. This is real wilderness.
18 March 2016
Budapest is a great and beautiful city! I have enjoyed it more than many of the other European cities I have visited, including Paris. The buildings are old and ornate without crumbling. The river is clean. There are no beggars we have seen only one immigrant, a well dressed (suit) very black man. Of course this is because Hungary refuses to take refugees. T
On the downside though, there are police everywhere, sirens night and day.
We enjoyed the castle area and this gothic cathedral. (Matthias Church).
There were also these "Fishermans bastions, honouring the fishermen who helped defeat the Turks here.
We enjoyed mulled wine here while enjoyed the view over the river to Parliament House.
But I think what I will remember best about Budapest is the music. In the outdoor eateries where we sat in the sun , drank wine, and people watched, there was also live music. Now this is not unusual in any European city, but here it was classical music. They are very proud here of Liszt and Bartok, and their music academy.
This violinist was extremely good as was his backup band of string base, clarinet, another violin, and Xylophone. When he heard we were Aussies they did a great rendition of Walzing Matilda. -corny I know, but still delightful.
A while later in the street we found three young women singing very quietly together, obviously not performing for any passers by, and singing the most beautiful harmony in a classical piece. It was quite lovely!
In the evening we found a great Vegan restaurant where we had a huge menu to choose from, and over-ate! And even the vegan restaurant had live classical music!
20 March 2016
Travelling southwards from Budapest Lake Balaton really leaps off the map for you. Hungary is so flat it needs a lake to drain it a bit. But this is a huge lake - the largest in Eastern Europe. It is lined by pre-war elegant villas. This seems to be a hangover which survived the soviet era here. We could imagine the wealthy Hungarians holidaying here. It is obviously still very popular judging by the restaurants etc advertising.
We struck it in a shut down mode too early in spring, but it must be really hopping in summer . All of the many camping areas were closed but we managed to find a spot to park where we could have our morning cuppa gazing out at the lake. No one disturbed us all night.
Onwards to the south and the town of Pecs. Turkish influence here is obvious in the former mosque now converted into a Catholic Church, overlooking the town square. Notice the cross atop the domed roof.
We arrived at the Hungarian border-crossing into Croatia, and had the most thorough vehicle inspection we have experienced anywhere yet. This is a crossing between EU States, but we had to produce our passports, and open the camper and the back seat of the truck.... not once but twice. We were questioned as to why and where we were going in Croatia. We were conscious of the fence and gate ahead of us.
But everything was in order and the guard wished a happy trip, and we were into Croatia!
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