Racing the wet -Bamaga to Coen

22/11/13 the sky is black and there is a line of clouds dumping heavy rain across Torres Strait. We can see storms everywhere, especially to the north of us. We have decided to get going. We have heard reports of wet roads around the Wiepa turnoff! and the road conditions report has had closures at the Kalpowar crossing and the Arakun Road.

So we filled up with water and food, and headed south. 

But before we crossed the Jardine we wanted to see the old crossing where we were winched across in 1983, so we took the "South Jardine" Road. It was very corrugated and narrowed but still passable. We recognised the old crossing all right. It was about 100m across and looked like prime crocodile territory. 

After lunch and enough reminiscences we headed for the ferry. 

Next stop Elliott falls. We had heard that the northern track to the falls was "ok in dry weather." Well it was still dry and trying to ignore the clouds and lightening to the east of us we turned into the track. Everything was OK until we turned into the old telegraph track and approached the ford at Sam Creek. We were surprised to find a large group of cars and bike riders camped there and swimming at the crossing. They directed us to the preferred spot to cross and walked it for us. So cross we did. 

The there was the second crossing....with a difficult approach and and curved track through the water, although the water was clear and not deep. Then there came the corrugations, and the road was too narrow to get up to the comfortable speed, so were were crawling along. 

Elliott Falls was disappointing though, and not nearly as nice as fruit Bat Falls in our opinions. 

We had a quick swim, during which Zef was stung by something. We think it must have been one of those very large water bugs. That sort of took the shine off the swim! So we decided to continue to Fruit Bat Falls for the night and an early morning swim. 

So back to the old telegraph track. More corrugations... Until about 1 km from the Fruit Bat Falls turn off! when we came on another ford just on dusk. This one looked nasty. It had a very steep entry, and was about 20m across. Joe decided to walk it and it came to crutch height, which is at about our max safe fording depth. There was much cursing of who ever had told us that this track was OK. We also became acutely aware of the lightening now not far away and probably in the catchments of both the creek behind us and the one ahead! 

We decided that we couldn't cope with this in the dark, so we chose a camping spot and planned to sleep on it. As we were starting to set up camp we heard a car coming! This guy obviously knew the track and he just drove on down and into the ford, driving across slowly and steadily. The water came up below his headlights. He had a Landcruiser with raised suspension. But behind him was a hilux with normal suspension. The water came up to his headlights and water was draining out of the back of his tray after he came out. They agreed to stay and watch us go through so that was enough to give us courage and in we went. 

Of course the actual crossing was no problem. The water came to the top of the wheels as predicted. That meant water in the lower lockers, but we had expected that and only packed stuff in there that could get wet. 

There has been rain at fruit Bat Falls since we were here a couple of weeks ago. There are washouts and mud on the board walk.  After we pulled up at the parking area another car came by. They had just come from Wiepa. They said it was raining heavily as they came up and the road was very wet and slippery. They said there had been three inches of rain on the road there. They were heading to Elliott Falls. In spite of or perhaps because they were pissed they were not worried about the fords. 

23/11/13 a morning swim at the falls was a delight. This time we wore clothes in deference to our Y gen (a rather more prudish generation than ours)  son. But otherwise we had it to ourselves again until after an hour or so. Then there arrived a car load of young people. It turned out they were nurses and a medical student (from Rockhampton) from the  Bamaga hospital and down for a day trip to the falls. We had an interesting discussion about the changes in health care delivery in Bamaga. 

After the. Falls it was southward a we went. About half an hour south of the Falls we met the rain. From then on it rained all day, with the roads becoming more and more slippery, and more water lying about. There was water over the roads in places. We heard about cars running off the road. We met trucks carrying wide loads -about 6 of them, really cutting hp the road. 

We heard that the river was lapping the bridge at Archer River this morning. And there was almost no traffic coming north. Once we were past the Wiepa turn-off it appeared ours were the only tracks on the road. So we were vary relieved when we approached the Archer River to see a road train coming north.

On reaching the River we saw that the water was over the bridge, but only by 30cm or so. 

At the Archer a River Roadhouse they told us that there was no water in the river this morning! 

Eventually we reached Coen about dusk, after steadily deteriorating road conditions. Joe was very weary by the time we set up camp in the rain. The river here at The Bend is in flood so we chose higher ground than for our last visit here. Stuart and Nira's camping spot of last time is flooded. 

It was not a very nice surprise to find that the main lockers leaked muddy water into them in the rain. There were cms of muddy water in the plastic tubs we have in the locker. These hold spare food, wine casks, lunch foods like bread, nuts etc. these things should not get wet -let alone muddy! This is our main storage area, so this will have to be solved! 

I look forward to getting out of the muddy roads where we can wash the vehicle. You can't help but get muddy handling doors, climbing in and out etc when the vehicle is so muddy. At least the inside of the camper is dry and clean. The roof top tent is also dry and clean. 

The next hurdle for us is the Laura River! which has closed the road already a couple of times this season. However it goes down again fairly quickly. One person told us that they waited 17 hours one time to get across this river.

24/11/13 We have awoken to a beautiful sunny day. This will be drying the roads out very quickly. So let's hope today is an easier driving day. We are more relaxed now that we are south of the Archer river, so it will be less of a. Strain anyway. 

Since we have Internet here at Coen I will upload this today, and see you all next from Cairns (I think).

Reminiscences Bamaga and the Cape 1983/4

I did a 2 month locum at the Bamaga hospital, Dec 83-Jan 84. I arrived by boat having been dropped off by the Pandora expedition. I had been diving on the Pandora wreck for 2 months as the expedition doctor, and now was to commence a 2 month locum at Bamaga.

The doctors house was a high blocked  3 bed room place across the road from the hospital. The hospital was a ground level timber building with about 30 beds as I recall. I was the only doctor, and so was constantly on call. There were about 10 nurses, mostly white but some islander nurses as well. I understand that the hospital now has three medical officers and 9 nurses. 

We had back-up from Thursday Island Hospital for particularly ill cases, or child birth etc. For patient transfers they sent a 2 seater helicopter. This helicopter had skids, and the patient in his stretcher was strapped to the skid, outside the cabin of the chopper. This made for a particularly hair-raising (for the patient) transfer across the water to TI.

My routine in the hospital was ward round first thing to attend to the in-patients, and then out patients clinic. I usually finished by lunch time. In the afternoon there were special clinics such as diabetes clinic, venereal diseases clinic, antenatal clinic. 

I was encouraged to take time off work to go camping on the weekends. TI would provide a doctor on call so I could get away. Some of the nurses came along on these trips further up the Cape. On one occasion we came across a 17 ft long python. It was stretched out across the road, with a wallaby in its mouth. It appeared to be stuck -unable to swallow the huge wallaby beyond the shoulders, and having trouble withdrawing from the carcass because it's teeth were getting stuck. We had a matress in the back of the Suzuki, and we put that down beside the snake so we could sit and watch the spectacle. Joe rigged up a light from the car and we sat and chatted while the snake successfully completed his withdrawal and pushed his mouth against the ground to relocate his jaw. 

On one of these trips we ran over a wallaby and found a young Joey in its pouch. We reared him (called him "Jardini") and he accompanied us on the camping trips. He was very popular with the nurses and with the patients in outpatients. They understood when I had to stop seeing patients to feed the wallaby (every 2 hours at first). 

We had a great time at Bamaga and I noticed that the community was considerably less violent than I had found Palm Island to be. But I lived in fear of having to treat a child for crocodile attack. There was a large crocodile who patrolled past the Seisia boat ramp every day. He even sunned himself on the ramp. But the local kids swam there, getting out of the water when the croc was nearby. I was sure one of them would be taken eventually. 

At the end of my time there I handed over the hospital to the incoming locum, and we went of to Usher Point and other camping spots. While we were away we heard the news that a child had died at the Seisa boat ramp! I was upset but glad that it hadn't happened while I was there. When we got back to Bamaga I asked about it at the hospital -the child died from a Box Jelly sting. He was dead before they got him out of the water. A nurse had been present but had been unable to revive him. 

Today (19/11/13) I was talking with a local Bamaga woman. She was aged about 10 yrs when we were here last. She said the boy who died from the stinger was her cousin, and that he is the only one to have died at the boat ramp from stingers. 

As we were approaching the end of our time on the Cape we heard that a cyclone was coming. So we decided to put the Suzuki on the barge to Cairns, and fly to Iron Range. Jardini of course came with us. It was unthinkable that we would put him in the hold of the aircraft, so I hid him in a shoulder bag which acted as his pouch. All went well until the hostie handed out biscuits. Jardini smelled them and struggled to get his head out for a bikkie. I managed to give him some and get him back into the pouch before we landed at Wiepa. 

After take off the pilot walked back into the cabin, stopped at our seat and asked to see the wallaby! He said they knew about him but if they had recognised him before take off from Wiepa we would have had to put him in the hold. So they pretended not to see him until after take off! Wonderful! That  woudn't happen now I think.

At Iron Range we camped in Cook' s hut (at that time an actual hut existed) and were completely unaware that the cyclone was now approaching Iron Range! a passerby called in and took us to a nearby mining camp and safety. 

At about the same time my brother Neville (pilot) was flying for "Bushies" otherwise known as "Bush Pilots".  Here are some of his reminiscences..

Of Punsand Bay.  

" I think that's the beach where the Bushies manager of the then resort there got the Landcruiser bogged whilst trying to retrieve the boat on the trailer, then proceeded to get the "rescue" end-loader bogged, and watched while the tide engulfed all except the boat!"

"Since I got your last email I've been following your blog. Of course I'm really envious. I've been to many of the places you mentioned when I was flying "the mail run" in a light-twin. I'd have to look at my log-book now to remember most of the names, but Kalpower, lakeland downs, Dorunda come to mind (Dorunda may have been on the Isa run). I recall landing on roads and parking the plane amongst the trucks and cars at the fuel bowser. It was an 11 or 12 hour day from memory.

I wonder whether, with email etc, there is still a mail run. I used to save up all the newspapers I could get my hands on and take them on the mail runs. The cockies loved any papers - regardless of their currency. But I can't remember the last time I read a newspaper and I'm guessing the cockies will be the same. And I can't imagine many people sending snail-mail from remote places now. And with the dry settlements I guess the practise of posting slabs of XXXX has also stopped!"

The differences we have noticed here include bitumen roads in Bamaga, and all of the roads are well formed and wider than they used to be. The hospital has been rebuilt, and there are three doctors now! The "doctor's house" which we lived in is still there but the palms have grown up. There are cafés and supermarkets. The beaches are developed -with public toilets, shelters, dune protection etc. there are a number resorts which weren't here before. And of course the barge! Last time we had to be winched across the Jardine. 

And lastly, there are still Cape York lillies! These are unique to the Cape! although we have recently seen them in nurseries in Brisbane. 

Iron Range and Chilli beach.

Sunday 10th November.

Well somebody did it! It rained last night and this morning! - couple of centimeters we estimate. Definitely enough to settle the dust and wash the foliage. And of course we washed our clothes yesterday, (in a tub with water which agitates as we drive) and hung them out last night. So they are still dripping.... But this morning the air is clean, and it feels very muggy. -especially where we are camped in deep rainforest. 

Monday 11th November. 

The magnificent rifle bird has managed to tantalise us with incessant calling but barely showing himself! I did catch one look but the light was such that I didn't see his real colours! 

So we left for Portland Roads and Chili beach. 

Portland roads is not a thriving town. It consists of a few ( yes about three) houses, one commercial enterprise ( a cafe, with some accommodation ) and a boat ramp. 

This is a very old OKA. This is a vehicle fully manufactured in Australia and which was very popular as an expedition vehicle  a few years ago. It's problem was that it couldn't be easily serviced because it was unique. There were a limited number made(? Maybe20) when they went out of business. I have heard that they may soon be made in Malaysia.

This the beach at Portland Roads. There! You have now seen the whole place! 

After Portland roads I wasn't expecting much from chili Beach, but I have been pleasantly surprised! 

Our camping spot...

The beach is just down that track and we can hear the waves. The water is jewel coloured, and there is a white beach. Of course there are also crocodile warning signs, and we know the stingers are about.... So no swimming. But also no sand flies so far.... 

Tuesday 12th Nov. 

The day has gone by in a very relaxed manner, reading, a bit of beach walking, afternoon nap! Joe is  mounting beetles again! He hasn't done enough of that for years now! 

However I have rarely seen a place so bereft of birds! Although they say that you can see palm cockatoos on the ground here sometimes. Well not this time.

We are off to Captain Billy's landing. 

Earthcruiser!

In December 2012 we settled on the Earthcruiser for our expedition vehicle. Have a look at their web site!

 www.earthcruiser.com.au 

 This was after trialling a troop carrier with pop-top conversion, and hiring motor homes in NZ. 

 The Earthcruiser has some distinct advantages -viz 

 the size of the vehicle is greatly superior to the troop carrier, 

 the Earthcruiser can fit into a shipping container (making intercontinental travel much easier than the alternatives), 

 the Earthcruiser is 4wd (unlike the motorhomes we saw). 

 The Fuso base vehicle is very widely available making repairs and servicing anywhere in the world possible. 

 Earthcruiser has a crawl through access from the camper to the drivers seat - a security feature we think is very desirable in unfamiliar countries! 

 We visited the manufacturing plant in Caboolture, Qld and saw some Earthcruisers and were pleased with quality and attention to detail. 

 So with great excitement we placed our order and began the long wait for delivery.

Beryl Turner

How we got here

We are a retired couple who like to travel and camp. We have a camper trailer and a Landcruiser and we have done a fair bit of outback and remote travel in our time. We have been to the red centre, NT including Kakadu, all of the Eastern states including Tasmania.

We hired a motor home in NZ twice. We have been to Birdsville and Eyre creek, including Big Red (the famous sand dune at the eastern start of the Simpson track.) Joe has driven to the tip of Cape York (I went by boat on that occasion).

The reason I mention all of this is to indicate that we are not complete 4wd novices. And we have done our fair share of roughing it in the bush.

Now we want to do a big trip. This time we will do it with some comfort. We have set our sights on Mongolia, the 'stans, and into Europe.

About a year ago we started to research what vehicle we would need for this trip. We considered taking our current setup. But a canvas tent in a blizzard? Nope! Towing a trailer across unknown streams? Not a great idea. And when we thought about human interference and then bears and Siberian tigers!-no way! 

Beryl Turner