The best thing about being up early though was that we had the Iwaobetsu onsen to our selves. This is the rotemburro (outside onsen) to beat all rotemburros. It was spectacular! Three pools, in the forest, next to a flowing stream.
That is a limestone or mineral deposit formed by the water flowing over from one pool the other, over many years. The pools have been chipped out of the rocks and have been coated with limestone by the water and by time. So the surfaces are smooth. 
And then it was over the Shirotoku pass towards the southeastern coast. The pass still had snow in places but it was here we met the sea fog from the Pacific Ocean.
As we reached the coast we ewe out of the fog, but when we turned north there it was again. The northern part of the coast was deep in the fog. I wondered how often this fog occurs and how these people get their vitamin D.
This coast has a continuous line of fishing villages, specialising in Kombu production. In Rausu we could have taken a whale watching cruise, but opted out because of the poor visibility with the fog.
Looking for a camping spot was a nightmare, since both camping areas on this side of the Cape are closed. The wild camping spots we found were again in bear territory, and we knew we couldn't cook either in the evening in in the morning. In addition the spots we found were occupied by clouds of biting flies and mosquitoes. We all have very itchy spots from these little blood suckers! They stay itchy and oozing for days!
So we ended up in Shari in a free campground, back on the north coast where we were a few days ago!
So that was the end of the Shirotoko National Park experience. It is not to be missed if you are in Hokkaido!
Aside from the onsens it doesnt seem to be too idylic?
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