Shirotoko National Park

Shirotoko is the National Park World Heritage listed peninsula on the East coast of Hokkaido. It has the Sea of Okhotosk to the north west side and the Pacific Ocean to the south-east. The sea of Okhotosk is covered in sea ice every winter. Poraching the peninsula from the north west it is quite obvious that this a mountainous park.  There is an interesting phenomenon in which the cold air from the sea of Okhotsk meets the warmer air from the Pacific and forms clouds which fold over the mountain range.

 The view of the Sirotoko peninsula from our camping spot as we approach the park, showing the cloud wrapped over the mountains. 

Also on the approach to park was Abashiri with its museum of northern peoples -including Ainu (the indigenous people of a Hokkaido) Eskimo, and Siberian indigenous peoples. The displays were very interesting. 

 This is an Aiunu woman's ceremonial dress, with furs, skins, beading, and embroidery! It is a crafts persons dream! 

We arrived in Utoro, the township at the entrance to the park, in rainy, overcast weather. Most of the park is inaccessible to people with only a few roads, most of which are restricted to use by remote fishing villagers. The best view of the park is to be had from boats which take trips along the north western side of the penisular to the Cape at the tip. We passed on the boat ride on the first day because of the weather. 

Instead we went to the only camping ground in the park that is open at this time of year (the others open 1st July). It was quite sobering to realise that there was an 8 foot (sorry -old units) electrified fence around the area. That was because of the bears! 

We had been seeing information about the bears since we entered the park, including photos of bears in the towns! There are hundreds of brown bears in this park, and they claim it is the only place in Japan where you can see bears in the wild. The park has the highest density of bears anywhere on Hokkaido.

The next day was bright with glassy calm seas so we opted for the longer of two cruises offered. The cruise was spectacular and not to be missed. In my opinion it rivals Milton Sound in NZ for sheer cliffs and waterfalls. We took so many photos, but I'll show a small selection here. 

The highlight of the day was seeing a female brown bear with two cubs foraging on the rocky shoreline. It was too far away for good photos but I got a good view with binoculars.

Coming back the spray was going over the outside seats. It was too dangerous to stand Nira up or move her and so she copped a good wetting. 

 Anyone who knows Nira will not be surprised to hear that she laughed her way through it and declared she wouldn't have missed it for anything! 

The next adventure was a board walk, 3-5m above the ground, and with electric fencing along it. This is a wheelchair accessible 1.5km walkway, for bear and scenery viewing. 

The only wildlife we saw was a deer.

Next stop was at the end of the road, the deepest we are allowed into the park, at a hot waterfall. This was a bit of novelty, but quite inaccessible for Nira, and the water was very acidic. We did not get into the water, but the spot was so scenic we decided to stay the night. 

The signs were warning us that it was bear country, and that we should not have food outside and should not cook. Some of us took this more seriously than others...... We had a fire and played quite loud music and stayed very close to the car. We also had a fire extinguisher very handy for spraying at a bear. Nira was particularly excited about the possibility of seeing a bear and was up at 3am hoping to see one! She saw a couple of Hokkaido red foxes, but luckily no bears.